Phew!

I thought I'd round off this little episode with a quick description of what ensued following our arrival in the Falklands.

So all was looking good for a return as planned, but then the UK fog, MoD flight, Falklands winds and general bad luck meant were staring down the barrel of Christmas in the Falklands. No problem really we thought. However it then transpired than the MoD flight was nowhere close to being ready and getting back for 30th January was about right.

So armed with no faith in that date or the MoD flight, plus a few quid reimbursed to us if we did not take the MoD flight, nearly all of the 22 persons in the same situation marched into the LAN Chile airline office and bought tickets out on a commercial flight the next day.

The best option for my money meant 2 nights in Santiago and a return to the UK late on Boxing Day. Better than another week in the Falklands with no firm return date. So off we went. Delayed again in the Falklands, but eventually into Santiago very late on the Saturday night. After much persuasion and haggling, three of us managed to change our ticket a total of three times and actually made it back for the last third of Christmas Day. So, I might not have reached Ireland (that'll wait until later in January), but I did get to have turkey and I did get to see P, F & C. So all good in the end.

Obviously it is all good whatever the circumstances, but I prefer this option.

Hope you all had a good Christmas too and I'll see you in the New Year.

Fatten the Christmas Goose

Forget all I said in the last post and you might even be able to convince me of being superstitious now - but our return travel plans are now completely stuffed. Christmas Day at the Upland Goose hotel in Stanley is a distinct possibility.

Having managed to get out of the Antarctic with no delays and problems with bad weather - it turns out to be the situation in the UK that affects us. A combination of the fog at home, winds in the wrong direction here in the Falklands and an MOD flight in need of some repair apparently, means we ain't going anywhere anytime soon.

P and the little ones were also delayed yesterday by some ejit (sp?) who jack-knifed a lorry on the M11. End result - they miss their flight and end up waiting for a flight on Friday morning.

Meanwhile who knows when I will get out of here. Optimistically it'll be Saturday, meaning home on Sunday and having to try and find another flight to NI at some stage.

However, it could be worse. A wise man once told me to learn to be content whatever circumstance you find yourself in. So I'll give that a go.

Slightly less fuzzy

At the risk of jinxing plans for the next few days, all is looking good for sticking roughly to the original itinerary for my return home. Things are falling into place and things are looking slightly less fuzzy than a few days ago.

The Dash7 and self about to leave Rothera.

Given that on Sunday the Dash was apparently still in bits on the ground in the Falklands, it did make it into Rothera on Monday and yesterday a number of us flew north to Stanley. I'm now sat here for a couple of days, getting on with some work (Andreas will be pleased) and attempting not to get too excited about being home for Christmas.

More leg room than EasyJet and no problems with hand baggage.

So all being well I'll soon be back in Coleraine. There I'll be greeted by P (knackered at this point but an absolute star), little F (arm not broken thankfully), littler C (disobedient girl went and walked before I got back!), little Sis, Little Bro, Liz and especially my Mother. I know Dad will be there too wishing us all well.

If it all goes pear shaped, then there's nothing to be done, but fingers are all crossed.

Ice, Hielo, Glace, Eis, Ghiaccio

Now at Rothera and back at base after a further two day cruise south into Marguerite Bay. The run into Rothera down Adelaide Island and the approach into Ryder Bay has been spectacular again. Added to this there has been some sea ice to tie up with the satellite imagery. So I've gone from a lack of ice and imagery to actually having a good bit of both available.

Iceberg on the horizon.

Moving through the sea ice west of Adelaide Island.

Welcoming party on the point as the JCR pulls into the wharf at Rothera.

After a few hours of unloading at Rothera, some of us were off again out into Marguerite Bay to recover some moorings and carry out some coring etc. A little bit of sea ice got in the way of one of these, but the Captain soon made short work of this and after some nifty work with the ship we had a hole in the ice through which the mooring could be recovered.

Icebergs in Ryder Bay.

Glad I'm on the ship.

The seals were probably wondering what the heck we were doing ruining their afternoon nap on the ice.

So this afternoon we go back ashore. Then the plan gets a bit fuzzy. Ideally I get on a plane to Stanley before Wednesday and then catch the MOD flight to the UK on Friday. Back in time for Christmas.

BAS' luck with the planes this season has been fairly poor. In fact the DASH7 (plane that does passenger transfers between Rothera and Stanley) is still in bits, spares being flown to Falklands this weekend, fix it and then test flight on Sunday. So if this goes to plan and the weather holds we'll be OK. Any deviation from this plan and who knows what happens. Actually I do, we'll probably be kept on the JCR and sail north to Stanley. Christmas and New Year on board. Hmmmmm.

However, we remain optimistic, let the rumour mill do its best and wait to be told what to do. Current opinion in the bar (after minimal G&T) puts the odds on being back for Christmas at slightly below 50:50. But only slightly. We should know a lot more in the next 48 hours.

I'll just shut up

We arrived at Rothera today - almost our final destination - only a little further south and then we turn for home. I'm running out of time again, but there is little to be said about the last two days. Not because it wasn't interesting - just because I do not have the words.

We've collected Peter, had a cocktail party on the top deck (brrrr), all the while sailing down the Peninsula. I'm not going to describe it. The pictures don't even do it justice. Enough said.

My first sighting of Antarctica - Elephant Island and a couple of big bergs in the gloom.

The coldest cocktail party I've ever been to.

The view I awoke to at 3am. Simply stunning.

Adelie penguins on an iceberg running for cover as a big red ship goes by.

An avalanche in the Gerlache Strait.

"__________________"

The snail and the whale

We continue to make our slow, haltering progress across the Drake Passage, but with this bit if survey work nearly completed, progress will pick up. So that's the snail bit.

The last few days have seen me getting more work done and fingers crossed things are largely on track. I'll never get everything I intended done, but that is always the case.

As for whales - well work was interrupted this morning by a large number of whales surrounding the ship while a CTD cast was taking place. There were more than one type, but mainly Fin Whales I am told. Notoriously difficult to photograph, but I did my best. Results below. What an absolute privilege to be able to watch so many of these animals at such close quarters. Incredible.




After dinner I got a chance to speak to my colleague from MAGIC Peter Fretwell, on the daily radio call. He has been doing some survey work on the South Shetlands for the last couple of months and is desperate for a hot shower and a cold G&T. We are due to collect him and a colleague on Wednesday morning from near the Chinese 'Great Wall' Base. That'll be right next to the Peruvian 'Machu Pichu' Base. And you think I am kidding. Due to the relatively easy access, the South Shetland Islands where these bases are located along with several others, is some of the most crowded Antarctic real estate.

Hope you are all OK - especially little people who seem to be doing synchronised falling down stairs. Fergus and Jessica - you know who I am talking about.

A different point of view

Given that I am here 'playing' with satellite imagery, I thought you might like to see this view of our journey taken a day or so ago. Our starting point for this leg in the Falklands can be seen top-right and the finishing post of the Antarctic Peninsula can just about be made out bottom-centre.

Aqua MODIS satellite image, 8th Dec. Image courtesy NASA.

We have just crossed the Antarctic convergence and the temperature has dropped by several degrees. I suppose that means we are now in the Antarctic proper. Colleagues on board continue to conduct ocean CTD (conductivity - temperature - depth) profiles every few hours. If the weather was worse I am sure people would be more concerned about being held in the line of fire crossing the Drake Passage. However it has been relatively calm so far. Last night was a bit more lumpy - waves crashing over the deck, chairs with people in them sliding across the width of the bar, frequent creaking and shuddering noises etc, etc. I still feel fine 95% of the time, so I'm keen to experience a bit more of this. Looking out of the window the view one second is all sea, then all sky the next. It's certainly moving around a heck of a lot more than the Larne - Stranraer ferry.

Happy Birthday!

Today is the 9th December and that means it is my daughter and god-daughters birthdays. How convenient they are on the same day.

So to Jessica - Happy Birthday, I hope you have a fantastic day and wish I could be with you. I'm sure those parents of yours will be spoiling you rotten. Given this, I am sure you won't even notice that I haven't sent your present. Rest assured it is here on board with me and I'll get it to you at New Year.

To Caitlin - my amazing little girl. I'd give my left arm to be back for the day - but I'll be home soon and you can show me all your new tricks. If there is any way you could hold off from walking until I do get back, then that would be great. Have an excellent day and make sure everyone spoils you too. Like they don't already.

All my love to the two of you - I'll raise a wee toast to you both in the bar tonight.

Chris with the birthday girls

All is good on board the good ship lollipop as Patricia seems to think it is called. The sea has certainly picked up and last night was a lesson in how to sleep while being thrown about in a slow but very firm way. One moment being pressed into my mattress, then next feeling as if I am barely touching it. Temperature has dropped, it is raining for the first time since leaving the UK and there is no question we are moving somewhere colder and wilder.

Rougher seas, no more blue sky, but plenty of bird life for company. This albatross is in its element.

That's all for now. I need to stop focusing on a small screen for a few moments and look at the horizon! Comments (below) now possible and it would be great to hear from you all.

As promised, here a few choice selections from the 200 shots of Volunteer Beach taken on Tuesday. This has to count as one of my top five beaches in the world. (Rossnowlagh and White Rocks still share top spots). Add the still unbelievable weather, expert and fascinating driver in Patrick and this was a superb day. Just made it back in time for dinner.

Not many roads to this place - unmade gravel and then grass track for over 2 hours.

"Quick run for the sea - last one in smells like a fish."

It's all too tough for this king penguin. Maybe unaccustomed to the heat.

Fur-ball

"Heads up, big wave, it's mine, it's mine, no dropping in"

Curious Gentoo penguins. Well curious right up to the point when they realised I wasn't a Gentoo penguin.

King penguins having a break from the water. Perhaps they had spotted the sea lion hanging around in the surf.

King penguins constantly preening themselves.

"Where's everyone else gone?"

Mine where you step

We are about to leave the Falklands, so I better scribble something about the islands before we leave and I forget - whether due to other views or crippling sea sickness.

Arrival in the Falkland Islands

I've been here since last Friday and have had a superb time. Friday consisted of helping out on board as the cargo started to come off. So a bit of lugging stuff around, a bit of cleaning, a bit of watching, some work where I could fit it in and a bit of waiting. I'm getting pretty good at waiting. Patricia won't believe me.

Jim, Pete and Richard helping with cargo at Mare Harbour

The Shackleton was at Mare Harbour, about an hour away from Stanley depending on the bus driver. So into Stanley that evening for a few beers and it certainly appeared that most people preferred drinking beer on solid ground rather than a moving ship. Very thirsty.

As an antidote to 5 days on the ship with limited opportunity for walking, we spent Saturday almost entirely on our feet. I joined a small group who were dropped off on the way into Stanley and walked up Mt Williams and Tumbledown Mountain. I have lots of vague memories of the Falklands conflict, but it is very eerie seeing the remnants still lying around almost 25 years later.

On top Tumbledown Mountain

In glorious sunshine we walked down into Stanley past the remains of several ships, presumably having limped in following a rough voyage round the Horn. After marching on to the Seaman's Mission for a quick cuppa and with legs just starting to feel a little tight we decided to continue on to the penguin colony at Gypsy Cove. A long walk later and some tiring legs welcomed a good meal in Stanley before returning to the ship.

About two hours from the ship at Mare Harbour is a magnificent place called Berthas Beach which is home to a colony of Gentoo penguins. After a day at work on Sunday a few of us took off in the evening to walk to it.

Berthas Beach

An amazing place. Nobody else around, deserted beach, lovely weather, fascinating penguins and all topped off by a stunning sunset for our walk back to the ship. Fergus - you would have loved the beach - not to mention the penguins.

Gentoo penguins and chicks at Berthas Beach colony.

Not a bad view for the walk back to ship.

On Monday we transferred to the JCR which took all day and a lot of waiting. Told you I was getting good at it. Due to sail on Wednesday, we took a last opportunity to go for a day at Volunteer Beach. That deserves an entry all to itself, so I'll get round to that later today. As I mentioned we have been delayed here an extra day, but shore leave has just ended and we are due to sail in the ext hour.

So please tune in next time for what will be a undisguised, blatant penguin fest. I promise more photos of the little blighters than you can possibly imagine.

I thought I was supposed to dress warmly?

I thought I'd start writing this as an experiment and possibly a good way to keep all interested parties up to date with happenings. It might even continue past this wee trip south. Who knows.

So as a bit of a catch-up I am currently making my way south for a rather brief trip to the Antarctic. It feels like quite a while to be away from P, F & C, but relative to a few I have met so far my trip is the briefest of blinks of the eye. Over two years in the Antarctic must feel like the start of an never ending dream. However, it is my first time - so it is all equally fascinating and exciting.

A number of us started in the UK just over a week ago and flew via Washington and Buenos Aires to Montevideo. Odd city - better steaks. The local Meat Market is a random collection of grills (paradillas) in an old, but never used, railway terminal. Not for the vegetarian, or indeed anyone without an appetite, I sampled the best steak ever without exception, grilled chorizo (Fergus - fo fee fo) and sweetmeats. Lovely. So lovely in fact we almost overstayed our shore leave and had to rush in a taxi to the port before sailing. But we made it back on board the Ernest Shackleton with a moment to spare and settled in very quickly.














More Uruguayan carne than you could shake a cow at.

So that was it. No more planes, big red and white ship, out of Montevideo, turn right and head south. Next stop Falkland Islands. This little cruise lasted from Monday afternoon until early on Friday morning. Several days filled with some work (honest), some reading, a little fretting about sea sickness, eating, admiring the view and sitting in the sunshine. I did spend a little while looking for some wildlife and now consider myself spoilt. In one hour on the top (monkey) deck, I saw sea lions diving out of the water, a little group of Magellanic penguins, albatross', skuas, terns and the briefest of glimpses of two whales. Quite unbelievable. All of this in bright sunshine - not really very polar yet.














ES in beautiful weather, South Atlantic.

Sea sickness is an odd thing. Some are completely unaffected and some are rendered utterly useless and stay in their cabin all day. As for myself, I was fine on the relatively calm trip from Montevideo to the Falklands. The only time it did pick up a bit I developed a raging appetite which seemed to help everything except my waistline. Let's hope that continues across the Drake Passage. However I am hopeful that having been able to continue writing emails on my laptop in a reasonably heavy sea while my cabin mate proceeded to retch his guts up not 2 feet away, I hope to be OK.

Arrival at Mare Harbour was mid morning on Friday. Immediately the ship began unloading a huge volume of cargo for transfer to the James Clarke Ross (BAS' other ship). This continued for the entire weekend and we were left to enjoy as much of the Falkland Islands as possible. Being a very different place than I expected, I will leave a description of it and our antics for a later posting.














The Ernest Shackleton in the Falkland Islands.